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MAKING YOUR FOUNDATION BASE
Most foundation bases are made from a combination of oxides plus titanium dioxide or zinc oxide and a filler such as Kaolin or Mica to dilute the color.
Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide product different a different end product. Titanium will be more opaque and provides more coverage. Zinc Oxide create less coverage and is better for foundations for women of color (in my opinion). Below is a picture of an example of the same oxide blend with zinc and titanium so you can see the difference.
Most all foundation blends are combinations of Yellow, Red and Black Oxide. There are foundation blends and instructions that start with brown oxide. This is simply a pre-blended combination of the 3 colors.
Not all oxides shades are the same and can vary greatly and give you very different results. Some have a more orange tone and others many have a blue undertone. My formulas that I am going to share with our use 2 very different red oxides that give you a large variation of color. The photo below is an example of two blends using the two different reds and with all else being the same in the formula.
Finally your end shade may be adjusted with typical shades that are used as “color correctors”. Below is a photo of a foundation blend in 3 different variations after these color correctors has been added to them. I suggest that you pre-blend your color correctors with mica ahead of time at the same percentage as you foundation blends (2 grams of pigment to 8 grams of mica). This will make it much easier to add to your foundation blend after you have made it. It is almost impossible to blend a tiny bit of pure pigment to a foundation without high speed blending equipment.
Too orange – add a pinch ultramarine blue (second from the left)
Too pink – add a pink of chromium green (third from the left)
Not pink enough – add a pinch of manganese violet (fourth from the left)
Now on to the formulas! It is really helpful to have a scale that will measure in very small increments. You can try using tsp and half tsp etc but you will have a hard time duplicating your blend. All my formulas that I am sharing with you are by weight and will make 10 grams of foundation base. You can choose to use either titanium or zinc oxide but need to stick to the exact oxides to re-product these shades.
Most standard makeup blends use from 6-10% of Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide (of the total formula). Translucent blends contain no titanium or zinc and are generally called “mineral veils” and are not used for coverage.
I have used 60% Zinc Oxide for all my Foundation Base Blends (formulas below). This will give you a light to medium colored base to start with after you have added the rest of your fillers. It can be adjusted to a higher amount for very light skin tones. Your Foundation Base Blends may be used at a 10 – 40% by weight of your total foundation base. All the photos I am sharing with you are at 20% of the total foundation blend. This is a good starting point.
For example, you want to make up 10 grams of loose powder 10 grams.
Foundation Base Blend 2 grams (20%)
Kaolin Clay 4 grams (40%)
Matte Mica 4 grams (40%)
Total weight: 10 grams (100%)
If you want 20 grams double the weights.
NOTE: If you have very dark skin do not adjust it by using more black. Adjust your blend by using a higher percentage of your Foundation Base Blends in the total formula.
Foundation Base Blend 4 grams (40%)
Kaolin Clay 2 grams (20%)
Matte Mica 2 grams (20%)
In the above photo the bottom row are the Foundation Base Blends (formulas below). The top blends are the fFoundation Base Blends 20% and fillers 80%. (if you make 10 grams of foundation your would use 2 grams Foundation Base Blends plus 8 grams of filler.
This is to get your started, I encourage you to try your own blends too!
Foundation Base Blend Formulas
#1 Dark Brown Red Undertone : Total 10 grams
#4 Dark Brown Yellow Undertone: 10 grams
#5 Dark Beige Yellow Undertone: 10 grams
#6 Medium Beige Orange Red Undertones: 10 grams
#7 Dark Brown #2 Red Undertone 10 grams
#8 Light Beige Pink Undertone 10 grams
#9 Light Beige Yellow Undertone 10 grams
Basic Foundation Formulas
These are starting places. If your foundation is too light then add more foundation base till you get the shade you want. Make sure you keep track of what you are adding by weight. If it is too dark then add more zinc or titanium by weight till you get the shade you want.
Matte Foundation 10 grams
2 grams Foundation Base Blend
4 grams Kaolin Clay
Satin Foundation Low Luster 10 grams
2.5 grams Foundation Base Blend
4 grams Kaolin Clay
3.5 grams Fine White Satin Mica *
*The fine white satin contains titanium dioxide so it will be lighter and more opaque than the Matte base. That is why I have suggested more foundation blend.
Satin Foundation Blend High Luster 10 grams (good for highlighters)
3 grams Foundation Base Blend
2 grams Kaolin Clay
5 grams Fine White Satin Mica *
Weigh out your foundation base and fillers.
Add to high speed blender (coffee grinder or mini hand grinder or mortar and pestle as described in Making Foundations Part 1.
Your powder will be ready to use but the it will better adhere to your skin if you add and additional 0.5 grams of Magnesium Stearate .