DIY Cream to Powder

DIY CREAM TO POWDER BASE

A cream to powder base is a suspension of powder in an oil free or light emollient and wax base. This allows you to apply mineral makeup in a form other than loose powder. It is a bit more complicated than making loose mineral makeup but with a bit of practice you can happily make your own.

You will need several tools and ingredients to start.

A scale that will measure down to single grams. Cosmetic formulas are always in weight measurements. The weight of your ingredients can vary greatly so this is an important tool. You will also want small stainless steel cups and bowls for melting.

  1. Our Accessory Kit  for Melt and Pour Products
  2. For and oil free product Isoeicosane . This is a petroleum-based emollient that will allow you to make an oil free product. It is a bit trickier to use, harder to re-melt and will smoke a bit with reheating your product. If you skin is dry you can use this light oil which will not aggravate your skin and is derived from fractions of Coconut Oil Capric Caprylic Triglyceride.
  3. Carnauba Wax or Jojoba Wax. This holds it all together and hardens the product.
  4. Serecite Mica. There are a couple of Serecites* that are best for this application. We have one treated with Lauroyl Lysine which will give you a super smooth application or another  Super White, which will give you a very white base. The white base is best for applications when you want highly pigmented products such as eye shadows. Do not use serecites coated with methicone or any other emollients as the oils will separate out and leave an oily film on the top of your product.
  5. Titanium Dioxide Oil Dispersible. This is used in foundations for coverage.
  6.  Silica Powder. Optional. This makes for a smoother application.
  7. Pigments for Color. I have put together to packs of pigments that may be used for making either Eye shadows or Foundations and Blushes.
  8. You will want to pick out a nice compact  or you just want to practice buy some pans.

* Serecite and Mica are the same thing.

FORMULA I

Each formula will make up 100 grams of product. Substitutions can be made according to your likes. I off basic instruction to get you started. Please read all the information above regarding the ingredients first.

Translucent Colorless Base for Eye shadows and Low Coverage Products

Phase 1 (oils and waxes)

Capric Caprylic Triglygeride (or any light oil)  46% (46 grams)

Carnauba Wax  4% (4 grams)

Phase 2 (Powdered Ingredients)

Serecite Mica 45% (45 grams)

Silica 5% (5 grams)

Formula II

Opaque Colorless Base for High Coverage Products such as Foundations

Phase 1 (oils and waxes)

Capric Caprylic Triglygeride (or any light oil)  46% (46 grams)

Carnauba Wax  4% (4 grams)

Phase 2 (Powdered Ingredients)

Serecite Mica 42.5% (42.5 grams)

Silica 5% (5 grams)

Oil Dispersible Titanium Dioxide 2.5%

FORMULA III

Colored Translucent Cream Base

Phase 1 (oils and waxes)

Capric Caprylic Triglygeride (or any light oil)  46% (46 grams)

Carnauba Wax  4% (4 grams)

Phase 2 (Powdered Ingredients)

Serecite Mica 25% (25 grams)

Silica 5% (5 grams)

Phase 3 Micas

Colored Micas of choice 20%

FORMULA IIII

Opaque Base with Coverage using Oxides or Strong Pigments

Phase 1 (oils and waxes)

Capric Caprylic Triglygeride (or any light oil)  46% (46 grams)

Carnauba Wax  4% (4 grams)

Phase 2 (Powdered Ingredients)

Serecite Mica 42.5% (42.5 grams)

Silica 5% (5 grams)

Phase 3

Oil Dispersible Titanium 2.5%

Depending on how much coverage you want this will vary. For liquid foundation usage level is up to 8%.

This particular application I recommend starting at 2.5%

Iron Oxides or Pre-blended foundation Oxides 0.8% -1%

This will vary also depending on your skin tone.  I recommend you learn to make loose powder initially so you know what color suits you best. Then you can apply what you have learned to this application.

Procedure:

In a suitable vessel combine Phase 1 ingredients and heat to 82⁰ Centigrade.

In a separate vessel, combine phase 2 in a ribbon-type blender (Cuisanart or coffee grinder type). Take 1 tablespoon of powder aside and blend your pigments into the base.   If you do not have an electric blender use our directions for blending them by hand.

Add phase 1 to phase 2 and 3, and mix to uniformity.

While still hot pour the mixture into your pans. If it starts to harden up re-heat the mixture on low heat or in a double boiler. You may also pour the mixture into a pot and save it to re-heat and use at a later time.

Note: 100 grams is enough base to make several eye shadows and compacts. You may also leave the base uncolored and then re-melt small parts of it when you want and add different colors.

Using your un-pigmented base to make products is simple.

Instructions with Pictures

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2 thoughts on “DIY Cream to Powder

  1. I plan on trying this formulation but I do not have silica. Is there something you suggest using as a replacement? Would magnesium stearate work as a substitute?

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