Botanical Shampoo with Pigments

My Copy of Expensive Botanical Shampoos *

*We are now primarily a packaging and color cosmetic company and no longer sell most of these ingredients. My customers still want to learn though so I will list suppliers for you as I go along.

I’ve been so busy lately that when I ran out of shampoo and I bought a big bottle of Pert Plus 2 in 1 to tide me over. It has a good rating with Consumer’s Report, it’s cheap, and it’s supposed to also condition your hair. I used it for a couple of months and my hair became dry and even more brittle. I’ve been planning to put together a shampoo tutorial for a while and Pert Plus was my inspiration to get busy.

For over 40 years I have been interested in herbs. Growing them, using them in various ways, and making tinctures. One thing I know is that they really DO work!  Changes may, at times, be subtle.  But they generally don’t cause any irritation or side effects and add a nice natural look to a product. And they smell great. I also wanted to introduce my new teabags, customized for infusions for the hair.

In addition to using a botanical infusion in this product, I added some Red-Brown Mica/Oxide to enhance my color. Sound strange?  I first tried this after I took my dog to a bathe him yourself salon and used their products. Since he’s white, I used a shampoo for white dogs. After his bath, I noticed his fur was very shiny!  I read the ingredient list and there it was, Pearl Mica!  I thought why not try something similar myself?  I knew it wouldn’t cause any permanent effects or ruin my hair like other chemicals might. I then mixed a trial batch.  I saw subtle color and shine changes after just one shampoo.  I decided to take a look at Aveda’s color enhancing shampoo, just to compare notes.

I also had a look at Aveda’s color enhancing shampoo. Here are the advertised ingredients:

“Infuses brunette and black hair with cool, dark tones and diminishes red hues. Black malva helps provide moisture to hair, while black tea helps intensify deep hues and purify the scalp.” Here is the complete ingredient list.

AQUEOUS (WATER, PURIFIED) EXTRACTS: BLACK MALVA EXTRACT, CAMELLIA OLEIFERA EXTRACT, SWEET ALMOND EXTRACT, WILD CHERRY BARK EXTRACT, ORGANICALLY GROWN ALOE BARBADENSIS EXTRACT, DIPALMITOYLETHYL HYDROXYETHYLMONIUM METHOSULFATE (PALM), STEARYL ALCOHOL (MIXED PLANT), DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL (SILICA), GLYCERIN (COCONUT), BEHENAMIDOPROPYL ETHYLDIMONIUM ETHOSULFATE (RAPESEED), DISTERYLDIMONIUM CHLORIDE (COCONUT), BABASSU OIL, HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, HYDROLYZED WHEAT STARCH, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, ORYZANOL (RICE BRAN), STEARYLDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLZED WHEAT PROTEIN, GLYCERYL STEARATE (COCONUT), GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (GUAR), DICAPRYLYL ETHER (COCONUT), CETYL ALCOHOL (COCONUT), CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (MIXED PLANT), CYCLOMETHICONE (SILICA), CETYL HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE (CELLULOSE), SODIUM CITRATE (MOLASSES), CITRIC ACID (MOLASSES), FRAGRANCE, DIAZOLIDINYL UREA, ANNATTO (COLORANT), CARAMEL (COLORANT), BASIC BROWN 17 (COLORANT), BASIC YELLOW 57 (COLORANT), BASIC BLUE 99 (COLORANT), BASIC RED 76 (COLORANT)

Quite simply, it has several with dyes to enhance the effect. I think we can do a bit better than that. Don’t get me wrong, I like their products but I won’t pay their prices unless it’s something very special I can’t accomplish on my own. Above is actually their conditioner but the shampoo was quite similar in coloring. It is very hard to get their ingredient list online.

MY RECIPE

Ingredient Volume Weight in grams
Phase A    
Water (Purified) 300
Botanical Infusion Shine and Strength 1 small bag 0
Botanical Infusion for Fair Hair 1 small bag 0
Potassium Sorbate 1 teaspoon 5
Lactic Acid 1 teaspoon 5
Naturajel 1T 5
Jojoba Aqua 1T 12.5
Pro Vitamin B5 1T 5
Honey 1T 15
Phase B    
Surfactant Blend 5 + a little oz 152.5
Red Clay Mica 1 sample pack 0
Evening Primrose Oil 2 caps 0
Vitamin E 2 caps 0
    500

About the Ingredients:

Botanical Infusions

You can buy the loose herbs and tea bags from San Fransisco Herb Company .

Fair Hair: A blend of Chamomile, Mullein and Red Hibiscus flowers blended together to help restore shine and highlights. Best for Strawberry Blondes and Blondes.

Dull Hair: Burdock Root, Nettle, Horsetail and White Willow Bark.  Good for all hair types.

Dark Hair: Nettle, Rosemary, Thyme, Walnut Husks,  and Sage. Best for Black and Brunette Hair.

Strength and Shine: Horsetail, Lavender Buds, Nettle, Chamomile. Good for all hair types.

 

Water should always be purified before using it for any cosmetic application. I always use distilled for my own products. Spring Water you buy from the store is not purified.

Naturajel: Non-sulphated and amide free surfactants in general make runny products and are difficult to thicken. Naturajel acts as an effective and stable thickener for most all surfactant systems. If you have other gel bases such as xanthan gum it may be substituted but is not as stable.

Honey: I am not a Vegan and always to prefer Honey over Glycerin in my products for moisture retention. Not only does it add moisture dry hair but it has other helpful active benefits depending on where it is gathered and what plants the bees have contact with.

Potassium Sorbate: A safe food grade preservative that is water-soluble and active against mold and fungus. Additionally it has some weak anti-bacterial properties. It must be converted to Sorbic Acid to be effective.

Lactic Acid: Helps convert Potassium Sorbate to Sorbic acid by adjusting the pH level in addition to moisturizing and helping with cell turnover of the scalp. Supplied by Lotioncrafter.

Provitamin B5: Helps strengthen the hair and makes it feel thicker.

Jojoba Aqua: A unique oil free and water-soluble product derived from Jojoba Oil. It adds all the shine and luster of Jojoba Wax without the greasy or oily feel. If you have dry hair you could replace this with Jojoba Oil. My hair is thick but fine so I leave the oil out.

Surfactant Blend: a mild surfactant blend. It can be used for amide free and sulfate free applications. This compounded blend may be used for shampoos, body washes, baby products and face washes. It has a mild pH of between 5-7.  A mild blend may be purchased from theherbarie.

HOW TO INSTRUCTIONS

Measure out your water and add you teabags. Let them infuse into the hot water for at least 15 minutes. The longer the better. Remove the teabags. 

boil-water-and-add-tea-bags.jpg

  •     Jojoba Aqua
  •     Potassium Sorbate
  •     Lactic Acid
  •     Honey
  •     Provitamin B5
  •     Naturajel (sprinkle the Naturajel over the top and let it sit while you start with your Phase B )

 

Note the color of the infusion below. Not only was it a pretty Red from the Cherry Bark but the Lavender and Chamomile gave it a lovely natural scent.

assemble-ingredients.jpg

 

Pour the Purefactant into a separate container. I added 2 Capsules and Vitamin E and 2 Capsules of Evenint Primorse Oil from my collection of Vitamins and Active Ingredients that I keep in capsule form. These stay fresher for an extended amount of time and I know exactly how many active units that I am adding. I also added some Rosemary and Peppermint Oil. I usually and between 1-3% essentail oil when I use them, rarely more than that.

Surfactants easily incorporate small amounts of oil without separating. You will get a creamy look when you add any type of oil.

 

purfactant-phase-with-vitamins.jpg it-will-look-creamy-after-you-add-oils.jpg

Next add you added color if you desire. I am a strawberry blond and chose to use the Red Brown Mica for my own shampoo. When you have mixed it in well pour this into your Phase A and mix the two together with a high speed mixer. The longer you mix the thicker it should get. This is the Naturajel doing it’s job. Another option is to mix Phase A first with a hand blender and then when it thickens you can add your surfactant (Phase B) blend and mix it by hand. This way there is less chance of incorporating lots of air into it. I always use a stick blender and make sure it’s well immersed. This does help keep air bubbles out.

add-mica.jpg

mix-the-mica-in-well.jpg

blend-both-phases.jpg

You are finished now. Decant your shampoo into an appropriate bottle and make sure it is completely cooled before capping it. I usually spray the inside of my cap with alcohol to assure mold does not grow in it from any possible condensation.

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